My Ameraucana was my most productive layer last summer/fall. However after the winter break, she never started laying again. My chickens are livestock rather than pets, which means that they need to pull their weight on the farm. Plus, I suspected that there was a health issue underlying the lack of eggs, so I figured it was more humane to give her a quick death than let her continue getting more sick.
I had read about slaughtering chickens but I was nervous about doing it on my own. Fortunately I recently made a homesteading friend who is experienced with poultry slaughter and she was happy to guide me through the process.
First we paused to admire how beautiful this girl was.
Then we placed her in a restraining cone and I sliced her throat open. The body thrashed a few times and the blood drained into a bucket below. I got lightheaded and had to sit down for a few minutes, but I was able to chat and joke. I didn't have any problems with what I'd done, but it was still shocking to actually kill a bird you've been raising for a year.
We had a hot pot of water ready and we dunked the bird and started plucking feathers. I've heard people complain about this part but it went quickly for us. I was amazed at how easily the feathers came out. Soon we had a carcass that looked almost like a store-bought bird.
We each took a foot and cracked it at the joint, then used kitchen scissors to get them off all the way. At this point my friend took over with cutting into the bird and removing the guts and organs, which was fortunate because we soon discovered that this was not a typical bird to learn on.
The Ameraucana had a huge buildup of thick, bright yellow fat filling up her inner cavity. It was so thick that it was pretty much a solid. It encased her vital organs, and it was clearly the culprit behind the lack of eggs. After a little sleuthing my friend diagnosed this as Fatty Liver Hemorrhagic Syndrome. Left alone, it would have led to internal bleeding and certainly a painful death.
We decided to try roasting her for lunch the next day, since all the internal fat would make up for her being beyond typical roasting age. We turned out to be wrong and the meal was only so-so. Next chicken will go into the soup pot instead. Still, it was very cool to eat an animal that I had raised, and knew exactly how it had lived and what it had eaten over its lifetime.
Friday, July 22, 2016
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
Chicken update
I had some straw that was wet but not yet moldy, and used it as bedding in the chicken coop. After a few weeks of scratching and mixing with chicken poop, it turned into wonderful soil.
I bought an egg skelter at Pollinate because it looks nicer on my counter top than stacks of cartons.
The Easter Egger/Ameraucana is going to be processed for the soup pot on Friday. She never resumed laying after the winter break. My chickens are livestock rather than pets, so they have to go if they're not pulling their weight.
The Ameraucana is the one in front.
I bought an egg skelter at Pollinate because it looks nicer on my counter top than stacks of cartons.
The Easter Egger/Ameraucana is going to be processed for the soup pot on Friday. She never resumed laying after the winter break. My chickens are livestock rather than pets, so they have to go if they're not pulling their weight.
The Ameraucana is the one in front.
Wednesday, May 25, 2016
End of spinning class, trying different wheels
I was sad to give the Ashford Joy back to Purlescence Yarns at the end of class. I had spent as much time as I could during the final week spinning up all the roving I had. I finished the blue/purple/pink/green one, and started on this beautiful pink/purple/yellow roving with silver silk mixed in:
This was the final result from that week:
I'm going to set them as singles. Not sure what I'll use them for yet.
I still have nearly all of that pink roving (I call it "My Little Pony" colored). There's a local yarn shop that has a spinning circle once a month, and I can use one of their wheels for $15. I might also put out a call in local craft groups to see if someone has a wheel I could drop in and use once a week.
I am seriously considering buying one of my own wheels. I went into the last week of class thinking I wouldn't because they're so expensive and you can buy so much yarn pre-made. But we spent the last lesson trying out all kinds of wheels in the store. I hadn't realized just how well the Ashford Joy had fit me until I tried multiple other wheels. I was very lucky to be able to use it for 3 out of 5 weeks between classes.
I was tempted by some adorable, teeny tiny travel wheels, but found the single drive to be uncomfortable:
I also found that pedals in which the pivot point was at the very back were more comfortable than those with a pivot point a few inches forward. I was not interested in a full sized traditional wheel, just due to the amount of floor space they take up. After relaying this information to the instructors, they plunked down a Louet S95 Victoria for me:
I was in LOVE! It was totally comfortable, so tiny and folded up yet more, and it was aesthetically pleasing. It comes with a travel bag/backpack so it's easy to take anywhere. Of course the folding wheels are quite expensive ($800). But I started to seriously consider it.
And then, I laid eyes on the Kromski Fantasia:
With the poor lighting and background, these photos really don't do this wheel justice. It is GORGEOUS. A wheel this beautiful calls out to you to spin on it. You don't put it away in a spare room - you keep it out as a piece of art to impress visitors.
Because it doesn't fold up, the Fantasia is actually cheaper than the Victoria - only $525 for walnut coloring and clear accent. (Or $399 for unfinished wood, for a custom paint job.) You can buy faster ratio whorls and a jumbo flier.
I'm not totally sure I should buy a wheel. I'm leaning heavily toward it because of the possibility of having ultimate control over the yarn I use. I enjoyed spinning, so it wouldn't be an annoying process I have to go through just to get the final product. You get a lot of bang for your buck when buying roving, especially if you spin lace weight singles (which I'm close to doing). And if I spent more time spinning rather than just crocheting, I wouldn't be buying finished yarns at such a fast pace! The final pro of buying a wheel is that they retain their market value very well, so it wouldn't be a big loss if 6-12 months later I decided to rehome it. Purlescence even sells wheels on consignment.
I'm about to go on a two week vacation, so I will ponder the question while I'm gone.
This was the final result from that week:
I'm going to set them as singles. Not sure what I'll use them for yet.
I still have nearly all of that pink roving (I call it "My Little Pony" colored). There's a local yarn shop that has a spinning circle once a month, and I can use one of their wheels for $15. I might also put out a call in local craft groups to see if someone has a wheel I could drop in and use once a week.
I am seriously considering buying one of my own wheels. I went into the last week of class thinking I wouldn't because they're so expensive and you can buy so much yarn pre-made. But we spent the last lesson trying out all kinds of wheels in the store. I hadn't realized just how well the Ashford Joy had fit me until I tried multiple other wheels. I was very lucky to be able to use it for 3 out of 5 weeks between classes.
I was tempted by some adorable, teeny tiny travel wheels, but found the single drive to be uncomfortable:
I also found that pedals in which the pivot point was at the very back were more comfortable than those with a pivot point a few inches forward. I was not interested in a full sized traditional wheel, just due to the amount of floor space they take up. After relaying this information to the instructors, they plunked down a Louet S95 Victoria for me:
I was in LOVE! It was totally comfortable, so tiny and folded up yet more, and it was aesthetically pleasing. It comes with a travel bag/backpack so it's easy to take anywhere. Of course the folding wheels are quite expensive ($800). But I started to seriously consider it.
And then, I laid eyes on the Kromski Fantasia:
With the poor lighting and background, these photos really don't do this wheel justice. It is GORGEOUS. A wheel this beautiful calls out to you to spin on it. You don't put it away in a spare room - you keep it out as a piece of art to impress visitors.
Because it doesn't fold up, the Fantasia is actually cheaper than the Victoria - only $525 for walnut coloring and clear accent. (Or $399 for unfinished wood, for a custom paint job.) You can buy faster ratio whorls and a jumbo flier.
I'm not totally sure I should buy a wheel. I'm leaning heavily toward it because of the possibility of having ultimate control over the yarn I use. I enjoyed spinning, so it wouldn't be an annoying process I have to go through just to get the final product. You get a lot of bang for your buck when buying roving, especially if you spin lace weight singles (which I'm close to doing). And if I spent more time spinning rather than just crocheting, I wouldn't be buying finished yarns at such a fast pace! The final pro of buying a wheel is that they retain their market value very well, so it wouldn't be a big loss if 6-12 months later I decided to rehome it. Purlescence even sells wheels on consignment.
I'm about to go on a two week vacation, so I will ponder the question while I'm gone.
Friday, May 13, 2016
Apron for crochet projects
I love to have a crochet project going on my lap while I'm at seminars and conferences, but sometimes I have to quickly stuff my project into my bag to get up, and things get tangled and messy. In preparation for a four day dog training conference in June, I made a half-apron with pockets that will allow me to easily slip the project in and be ready to go.
The bottom right is for the yarn ball I'm pulling from. The little ones are for scissors (though I need to reinforce the bottom with some foam or similar so the sharp scissors don't poke through) and for the needle. The top pocket is for the project itself. The main fabric of the apron is wool, so it will also keep my lap warm when I'm sitting still for a long time. (I've been known to bring blankets to conferences.)
If I were making it again, I would make the needle pocket taller so that it pokes out less, and I would make the yarn pocket round rather than rectangular, so it's a neater fit and for aesthetics. I would also make the apron itself a trapezoid with a flared bottom so that it would wrap around the sides of my legs in a more pleasing way.
The bottom right is for the yarn ball I'm pulling from. The little ones are for scissors (though I need to reinforce the bottom with some foam or similar so the sharp scissors don't poke through) and for the needle. The top pocket is for the project itself. The main fabric of the apron is wool, so it will also keep my lap warm when I'm sitting still for a long time. (I've been known to bring blankets to conferences.)
If I were making it again, I would make the needle pocket taller so that it pokes out less, and I would make the yarn pocket round rather than rectangular, so it's a neater fit and for aesthetics. I would also make the apron itself a trapezoid with a flared bottom so that it would wrap around the sides of my legs in a more pleasing way.
Thursday, May 12, 2016
Alpaca shearing
Back on April 2nd, I drove 2 hours north to Esparto to volunteer on alpaca shearing day at Derwydd Alpacas, a large farm. It turned out that they always have a group of UC Davis vet students helping shear, and I was the only non-student present.
The process went like this:
1. Bring a small group of alpacas into a pen at the back of the barn.
2. Consult The List, which tells us which alpaca gets which type of shear. Some owners wanted the legs shaved close, while others like them long. Most of the fleece was bagged for future sale and processing, but there were some exceptions.
3. Separate out the next alpaca on The List. They all had nametag collars on so that the volunteers could identify them.
4. Bring it into a tiny pen where two students vacuum the fleece to get some portion of dust and dirt out.
5. Weigh the alpaca pre-shearing.
6. Bring it to one of two tarps in the shearing area so that it's ready to go as soon as the previous one is done.
7. Sweep all the hair of the previous alpaca away before bringing the next one on, so its fleece doesn't get contaminated (especially important if you're switching colors of alpacas).
8. There are two noose-ropes set up at one side of the tarp and two at the other. You place these around the alpaca's ankles. Then one person uses a winch to pull the top two taut, while three people help ease the alpaca down and onto its side as its legs are pulled apart. Does that sound awful? It kind of is, though it's critical to keep the animal still while it's being sheared for safety. This is the traditional way to do so.
One other common way is to use a table which flips between horizontal and vertical. You lead the alpaca over to the vertical table surface, tie him to it, and then flip it horizontal.
9. Either way, you can trim the alpaca's hooves after it's down and while you wait for the shearer to clean and oil his clippers. This is similar to trimming giant dog nails. This is also the time to check for ear mites, worms in the eyes (EW), or other problems.
10. One person stays by the head of the alpaca while it's being shorn. They hold the head still and, if the alpaca is spitting in anger, cover its mouth with a rag. Halfway through, they lift the alpaca's neck and guide it onto its other side. I spent most of my day doing this job.
11. Once shearing is done, you let the alpaca up and weigh it again, which gives you the total weight of all the fiber that was removed.
12. Any necessary medications are given at this time, and then the alpaca is let loose with its herdmates.
The alpacas ranged from lying totally still (learned helplessness) to non-stop yelling and spitting. Since my approach to animal husbandry and training always focuses on making the interaction as stress-free as possible, I was concerned about this. None of the alpacas were hurt (other than a few nicks with the clippers if someone had a fatty growth hidden under all that fleece), and the process is done as quickly and efficiently as possible so that the stressful period is as short as possible. That said, if I ever do get my mini herd of fiber boys, I plan to do some clicker training to make the process better for them.
The blanket of the Huacaya fleece is carefully kept together and placed in bags for judging and sale.
Suri fleece is just bagged more willy-nilly.
The process went like this:
1. Bring a small group of alpacas into a pen at the back of the barn.
2. Consult The List, which tells us which alpaca gets which type of shear. Some owners wanted the legs shaved close, while others like them long. Most of the fleece was bagged for future sale and processing, but there were some exceptions.
3. Separate out the next alpaca on The List. They all had nametag collars on so that the volunteers could identify them.
4. Bring it into a tiny pen where two students vacuum the fleece to get some portion of dust and dirt out.
5. Weigh the alpaca pre-shearing.
6. Bring it to one of two tarps in the shearing area so that it's ready to go as soon as the previous one is done.
7. Sweep all the hair of the previous alpaca away before bringing the next one on, so its fleece doesn't get contaminated (especially important if you're switching colors of alpacas).
8. There are two noose-ropes set up at one side of the tarp and two at the other. You place these around the alpaca's ankles. Then one person uses a winch to pull the top two taut, while three people help ease the alpaca down and onto its side as its legs are pulled apart. Does that sound awful? It kind of is, though it's critical to keep the animal still while it's being sheared for safety. This is the traditional way to do so.
One other common way is to use a table which flips between horizontal and vertical. You lead the alpaca over to the vertical table surface, tie him to it, and then flip it horizontal.
9. Either way, you can trim the alpaca's hooves after it's down and while you wait for the shearer to clean and oil his clippers. This is similar to trimming giant dog nails. This is also the time to check for ear mites, worms in the eyes (EW), or other problems.
10. One person stays by the head of the alpaca while it's being shorn. They hold the head still and, if the alpaca is spitting in anger, cover its mouth with a rag. Halfway through, they lift the alpaca's neck and guide it onto its other side. I spent most of my day doing this job.
11. Once shearing is done, you let the alpaca up and weigh it again, which gives you the total weight of all the fiber that was removed.
12. Any necessary medications are given at this time, and then the alpaca is let loose with its herdmates.
The alpacas ranged from lying totally still (learned helplessness) to non-stop yelling and spitting. Since my approach to animal husbandry and training always focuses on making the interaction as stress-free as possible, I was concerned about this. None of the alpacas were hurt (other than a few nicks with the clippers if someone had a fatty growth hidden under all that fleece), and the process is done as quickly and efficiently as possible so that the stressful period is as short as possible. That said, if I ever do get my mini herd of fiber boys, I plan to do some clicker training to make the process better for them.
The blanket of the Huacaya fleece is carefully kept together and placed in bags for judging and sale.
Suri fleece is just bagged more willy-nilly.
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
Sheet mulching
I visited my parents for Mother's Day weekend. They have a corner of their yard that has been taken over by weeds. They grow long like vines, and re-root wherever they touch down into dirt. I volunteered to sheet mulch the area for them. They had never heard of this technique but were thrilled that I was going to take care of the problem for them.
Pre-mulching. They had a thin layer of wood chips down but the weeds were all over it. I left the wood chips there instead of raking them out and reusing them because I was afraid that some of the weeds would get transferred and re-root.
Cardboard placed and soaked with water to keep it down. I used up all of the pieces of large cardboard, chicken feed bags, and bulk flour bags I'd been saving up for my future homestead.
New wood chips put over top. 5 bags measuring 2 cubic feet each just barely managed to cover the area.
Cross your fingers that the weeds don't escape out the sides. At least they'll be easier to stay on top of from here on out.
Pre-mulching. They had a thin layer of wood chips down but the weeds were all over it. I left the wood chips there instead of raking them out and reusing them because I was afraid that some of the weeds would get transferred and re-root.
Cardboard placed and soaked with water to keep it down. I used up all of the pieces of large cardboard, chicken feed bags, and bulk flour bags I'd been saving up for my future homestead.
New wood chips put over top. 5 bags measuring 2 cubic feet each just barely managed to cover the area.
Cross your fingers that the weeds don't escape out the sides. At least they'll be easier to stay on top of from here on out.
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